Matteo Baronetto, 39, is originally from Giaveno, in the neighborhood of Torino. He started his culinary career at La Betulla of San Bernardino di Trana and later at Marchesi’s, the Albereta of Erbusco, where he met Carlo Cracco. He then followed Cracco first at the restaurant Le Clivie of Piobesi d’Alba, and later to Milan, at the Cracco-Peck, (today Restaurant Cracco) where for the past few years he had conceived all the menus that have earned two Michelin stars. He came back to Torino in April 2014 as chef at the Del Cambio’s re-opening. His return is made even sweeter as Bronetto was a previous intern at Del Cambio early on in his career. The kitchen area though is not the same anymore: Chef Baronetto together with the french company Matinox have brought to life an avant-garde working space. Entirely customized and hand-made, the kitchen places the strength of the materials and the care of the details in deference to contemporary cooking, vis-a-vis a space that boasts both amazing visual impact and extreme efficiency.
He describes his cuisine as “a reasoned improvisation,” one that requires during its execution a constant exercise of balance between intuition and consideration, inspiration and talent. At Del Cambio his cuisine expresses a respect for the region, of the history and of the tastes of the customers of today and yesterday. His background, solidly inspired by the piedmontese tradition whose influence has never been forgotten, leads him to the production of courses that can hardly be labeled. His vision for such a place charged with rich history is to create, in and out of the kitchen, “something that will stand the test of time.”
THE GASTRONOMIC À-LA-CARTE MENU
The outstanding traditional courses alternate with the contemporary creations in an irresistible contest of seduction of the palate. Some classics, always in the menu of Del Cambio are: the vitello tonnato, the agnolotti Piemontese style, the Cavour rice, the Del Cambio Finanziera. Acclaimed signature offerings include salmon and rabbit, veal kidney and urchins, carpione, rice with nutmeg and anchovies, steamed sea bass and ox tail.
Finanziera del Cambio
A election of exotic meats including veal sweetbreads and calf brains are cut in large pieces, served with mushrooms and grains and set on the dish so as to enjoy visually each ingredient.
Different from the traditional recipe of the carpione, the chef chooses to present the meat, the fish and the vegetables separately from the dip. The classic dipping mix (wine, vinegar, aromatic herbs) is served in a cup instead. Only the organic matters find place in the serving dish, each keeping its taste and consistency, due to the different cookings. Some are fried, others are steamed. Some others are offered raw such as the shrimp. This way makes it possible to taste the course more intimately, while soaking - like crudités in an oil dip - at your ease and in your preferred sequence.
A tribute to the legendary statesman: the steamed egg, the Count’s true love, acts as principal, accompanied by tomato confit and some black rice grains to give a touch of crunchy texture to the softness of boiled rice.
The pig nose, a tradition of Milano, is married with the green sauce from Torino, while the veal tongue typical of Torino meets the saffron traditionally from Milano.
Salmone e coniglio
This recipe came to life on the occasion of the Creative Combustion Workshop, promoted by Dom Pérignon in May 2014. A contrast of ingredients are represented by salmon and rabbit, both served raw. To finish the dish, a sprinkle of hazelnuts and dribbles of savory butter are added.
BY LOY BERNAL CARLOS